The forecast said “sunny spells”. I remember that because, later that morning, as the cloud finally lifted off the ridge and water was still running down the inside of my sleeves, I said it out loud to my brother, and he laughed so hard he had to sit down in a puddle.
It was the August I was thirteen. Our family had rented a cottage in the Lake District, and Joe, who was seventeen and had recently decided he was an expert in everything, announced that he and I would climb the fell behind it before breakfast. No map. Two cereal bars. My trainers, which were white and which I loved.
For the first hour the morning was perfect. The grass was silver with dew, the sheep watched us with polite boredom, and the lake below turned from grey to a clear, hard blue as the sun rose over the hills. Joe walked ahead with his hands in his pockets, describing our route as though he had invented it. I was too out of breath to argue.
Then the light changed.
It happened so quickly that I noticed the silence before I noticed the sky. The birds had stopped. When I turned round, the valley we had climbed was disappearing, swallowed from the bottom by a wall of cloud that moved faster than seemed fair. The lake went first, then the cottage, then the dry-stone wall we had scrambled over twenty minutes before. Joe stopped talking.
The rain, when it came, was not like rain at home. It did not fall; it arrived sideways, in sheets, and it was so cold that it made my teeth ache. Within a minute my white trainers were brown. Within five, I could not see the path, or Joe, who was three metres in front of me and had become a dark shape with a voice.
“Stay close!” he shouted, and for the first time that summer he did not sound like an expert. He sounded seventeen.
We did the only sensible thing either of us could think of: we crouched behind a boulder, pressed together, and waited. I remember the smell of wet wool from his jumper and the way the cloud tore past us in ragged pieces, so that for a second at a time we could see a sheep, a gate, a patch of hillside, before it closed again. Joe gave me both cereal bars. Neither of us mentioned the map.
It lasted perhaps forty minutes. Then, as suddenly as it had come, the cloud lifted, and there was the lake, blue again, and the cottage with smoke rising from its chimney. When we reached the gate, our mother was standing there with her arms folded.
My trainers never recovered. I threw them away at the end of the holiday, still faintly brown. But I kept something else from that morning: the memory of my brother, soaked and silent, handing me his breakfast behind a rock. These days, whenever he tells me he knows exactly what he is doing, I just say “sunny spells”, and he goes quiet.